Stepping Back in Time
Last night we did a college fair in Manama Bahrain. Many of those in attendance were potential graduate students from Saudi Arabia, attired in traditional Arab dress. Saudi Arabia is next door to Bahrain. One of the Bahrainian parents told me that the Saudis all come to Bahrain for the weekend because that country is more open (e.g. alcohol is permitted) and people from Bahrain go to Saudi Arabia on the weekends because it is a less expensive place to shop. One of the people in attendance was an American living in Saudi Arabia whose daughter is currently a sophomore at Seattle University. He was there representing a scholarship program through Saudi Aramco, so was not there as a "consumer".
We just arrived in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia; a two hour plane ride from Manama. On the plane I noticed women slipping cups of coffee under their face scarves (only the eyes showing) to sip them. This is a distinctly different environment than any we have experienced so far in the Middle East. As we were coming in to land we flew over miles and miles of sand dunes. Exiting the plane we were confronted with a wave of heat -- dry heat, surprising in light of Jeddah's location on the Red Sea. However, it is reminiscent of opening an oven door. Fortunately the hotel air conditioning here is working aggressively -- in hot and h u m i d Bahrain the hotel air conditioning wasn't great -- the thermometer in my alarm clock read a steady 74 F. I am liking this.
My colleagues and I expected something different when we arrived; the airport is very worn and tired. However, signs were up indicating it is under construction by the BinLaden Construction Corporation. We exited the plane on to the runway and then were bused to the terminal. It would be an understatement to say that security here is tight. Despite the complex visa application I submitted several months ago (which required a photograph, and after being granted occupies two full pages of my passport) I was sent back to fill out a entry form which repeated most of the same information. A number of my colleagues were sent to a computer room where they double checked the information on their visas. No smiles were wasted on us by the customs people; my passport was slammed down on the counter after the official had examined and vigorously stamped it.
All the women on the trip immediately proceeded to the airport bathroom to don abayas and head scarves. They indicated some kind women there were helping them drape themselves in the appropriate fashion -- apparently no hair is supposed to show. Some were a bit nervous because apparently they are supposed to wear closed shoes, but those wearing sandals managed to fly under the radar. They are also supposed to walk 3 feet behind the men; we unwittingly didn't follow that protocol in the airport. However, it is reported that Jeddah is more "relaxed" than Riyahd.
Driving in I expected everything to be gleaming, modern, and new. Actually it is pretty modest: alot of simple, functional, older buildings with some in various states of disrepair. Much of what we saw driving in was reminiscent of the early 70's. We did pass some pristine, majestic government buildings. And of course, the omnipresent McDonalds. Looking out on the city from my room I am primarily seeing low rise buildings in various shades of beige and white; it's actually pretty monochromatic.
Shortly we are going on a walking tour of the old city here. I just ordered a sandwich from room service. (The waiter bringing it was from Manila; the men bringing our luggage in from the bus were from India.) Scanning the menu I saw cocktails listed including a Saudi Cooler (apple juice and Perrier with fresh cuts of apple, lemon, and mint), a Tropical Banana (banana, orange, coconut cream and strawberry syrup) and a Shirley Temple (7 Up, Ginger ale, and grenadine). Shirley Temples make me flash back to my elementary school days when after Sunday mass my father would take us out to dinner and I'd be allowed to order one. Like Kuwait, no alcohol is to be had in KOSA (the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia). Upon check in, like in Kuwait, we were greeted with fresh glasses of juice -- again I opted for mango juice.
As I eat my chicken sandwich I can hear the faithful being called to prayer from the minarets. This stop is clearly going to be a distinctive experience.